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Little Harbor Brook & Birch Spring Loop


To walk the watershed of Little Harbor Brook from the ocean to the rise of one of its tributaries is to walk backwards through history from the death of a brook in the arms of the sea to its humble birth at the foot of a steep mountain cliff 800 feet above and only three miles inland from its salty release. The brook spans a small bioregion on the verge of resurrection as snow and ice melt to flood the soil.

Much of the brook lies on private land outside the boundaries of Acadia National Park. The owner maintains a trail that runs next to the brook from Route 3 almost to its junction with the Asticou Trail a mile and three-quarters to north of the road. The only tracks on the Little Harbor Brook Trail were those of squirrel and hare, fox and deer, muskrat and raccoon, weasel and grouse.

From the upper end of the Little Harbor Brook Trail (or simply the Harbor Brook Trail) I followed the Asticou Trail east a short way to the first carriage road it crosses, where I turned north along the carriage road, descending to Little Harbor Brook Bridge. The Amphitheater Trail begins on the north side of the bridge at a trailhead which reads:

AMPHITHEATER TRAIL
BIRCH SPRING
1.4 MI/2.2 KM
PENOBSCOT MT.
2.2 MI/3.5 KM
SARGENT MT.
2.6 MI/4.2 KM

ASTICOU TRAIL
.3MI/.5 KM
JORDAN POND
.9 MI/1.4 KM
From the bridge, the Amphitheater Trail rises gradually toward the north along Little Harbor Brook to Amphitheater Bridge, then more steeply up the valley between Cedar Swamp Mountain on the west and Penobscot on the east to a tun to the west, from which it rises rapidly across ledges to Birch Spring and a junction with the Sargent Mountain South Ridge Trail. As hinted by the old sign on Route 3 at the beginning of the Little harbor Brook Trail, JORDAN MTN. VIA AMPHITHEATER 5.3 K, the brook and Amphitheater trails used to run in an straight line through the Amphitheater (the closed valley between Cedar Swamp and Penobscot mountains) almost to Sargent Mountain Pond. The trail no longer continues past the turn for Birch Spring, though I one followed its former course in March across soggy ground and made it to the summit of Penobscot (formerly Jordan) Mountain.

From the harbor to Birch Spring, the brook rises very gradually to Little Harbor Brook Bridge, then somewhat more steeply to Amphitheater Bridge, and more steeply still to the turnoff, where a small tributary rises rapidly to the spring. Above the spring, the Cedar Swamp Mountain Trail (a continuation of the Sargent Mountain South Ridge Trail) rises to 900 feet, skirting the 942-foot summit.

On the return, I followed the Cedar Swamp Mountain Trail past the Around-Mountain Carriage Road to the junction with the Asticou Trail, which I followed east to Little Harbor Brook, retracing my steps back south along the brook.

[Excerpt from Acadia: The Soul of a National Park by Steve Perrin]


 
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